If you can’t find your answer here, send me a mail via the contact page!
Shipping
How do I ship my film, and how do I get my negatives back?
If you place an order in my webshop, you’ll first have to get your film to me. You can ship it to the address listed at the bottom of the page, in which case I’d recommend packing your film well. Please add a note with your order number.
A letterbox parcel can get lost, I’ve had this happen with some customer’s films, so please spend the additional €1,50 for a small parcel instead of shipping as a letterbox parcel as you’ll be entitled to an investigation when your parcel is lost!
You can also drop off your film if you’re in the neighborhood, pack your rolls in an envelope or something with a note attached then just drop it in my mailbox.
For return, you have the option to choose either a tracked letterbox parcel or a tracked regular parcel. If you live in NL, you’ll also get the option to choose pickup, in this case I’ll send you a mail when your negatives are ready so we can make an appointment for you to drop by to come and pick up your negatives.
I don’t have visiting hours, so please don’t show up on my doorstep unannounced (unless you’re only dropping off film 🙂 )
When will my order be shipped?
Negatives are usually shipped in the first half of the week (Monday or Tuesday). Chemistry orders are compiled fresh on Fridays or Saturdays and shipped the same weekend. Spare parts are shipped together with chemistry orders.
How do I track my order?
You will receive a tracking code when I’ve shipped your package out. You can track your parcel at PostNL’s tracking page.
Development
What do you use to develop my film?
- I mix ECN-2 developer according to Kodak’s official specifications, listed in Module 7 of the Kodak Cine handbook. This is the same chemistry I also sell in my webshop.
- D-96 is formulated using Module 15 of the same handbook, also sold here.
- For FX-55 I use the recipe from Pictorial Planet, which is also called the Gainer formulation. This is (I believe) the same formulation that’s sold by other photochemistry stores as it’s the most stable.
What do you scan my film with?
I have 3 scanners at my disposal:
- a Nikon Coolscan 5000 (or more accurately, a Coolscan V with a firmware mod and a hole in the casing) which is slow, but produces crazy sharp 24MP files from 135 film
- a Pakon F-135+ lab scanner, built for speed and nice colours, producing 6MP files
- and for 120 a Minolta DiMAGE Scan Multi PRO which can pull 88MP from 6×9 negatives.
How are my negatives cut?
Usually I cut negatives in strips of 6, and sleeve them in regular minilab sleeving or in ADOX Adofile sleeves for €0,50 per roll. I can also leave your roll uncut if you ask for it, but you’ll have to send me the plastic canisters with your rolls as I will roll your negatives in a strip of paper and stick them in the can. Make sure to leave the cap off the can if you’re shipping via letterbox parcel, as it won’t fit the mail slot otherwise (and you’ll probably get fined).
6×4.5 will be cut 4×4, 6×6 as 4×3, 6×7 will be 2×3 and 2×2, 6×8 and 6×9 will be 4×2.
Chemistry
What is the shelf life of your chemistry?
ECN-2
When mixed and unused, I will keep my developer for up to 5 days. When used, I will discard it after a maximum of 2 days, but I nearly always use it one-shot.
My ECN-2 kit is not as stable as real commercial kits, such as those from Bellini or Jobo. I suspect they use a different chemical composition for the developer which increases its shelf life, adding additional oxygen scavengers (most likely sodium metabisulfite). I don’t have this formula, and I’m not versed enough in chemistry nor do I have the equipment to change the recipe while still obtaining the required density and contrast curves.
Part B (CD-3, the color developer compound) is the culprit. When dry, it is very stable, but as soon as it’s mixed it will start to oxidize. A trick to extend your kit is to make a stock solution of part A, measuring it out when you want to use it then adding the required amount of part B just before development, discarding it after use. You’ll need to add 1 gram of part B per 250ml of stock solution.
D-96
D-96 is pretty stable with its high sulfite content. When mixed and stored in a closed container without oxygen it’ll last for at least a month, up to about 6 months. Since I use it in a rotary processing machine myself (which introduces a lot of oxygen in the process) I use it one-shot.
FX-55
FX-55 lasts indefinitely (or close to it) when parts A and B are kept separate. Working solutions should be used within 3 days.